Finding Great Restaurants in New Orleans

I grew up in New York where aromas of worldly foods waft through the air drawing attention and curiosity to your hunger. I moved from New York City, away from the over 16,000 Full-service restaurants. Now, I am living in a vibrant but small community in the Mississippi Delta which is home to not a single traffic light and a total of five restaurants. That said, every now and then I drive great distances to satisfy my palette and fill my belly. This time, destination New Orleans! NOLA is one of my favorite cities in America, where the language, architecture, food and music are all their own.

So, where to eat in New Orleans? First I enquired among friends and family. Then I talked to the local folks of New Orleans. NOLA has its share of trendy eateries that cater mostly to tourists. I have indulged in these places many times. This time however, let me discover where the locals love to eat. 

The Court of Two Sisters is in the French Quarter at 613 Royal Street. It boasts the largest courtyard in the French Quarter. The original resident at this address was Sieur Etienne de Perier, the royal governor of colonial Louisiana between 1726 and 1733.  Later, two Creole sisters acquired the property and hence the name, The Court of Two Sisters. The restaurant caters to both the local crowds and the tourists. I was greeted and seated in the fabulous courtyard under the shade of large Wisteria vines and adjacent to the trickling of a marvelous flowing fountain. Aleshia, my waitress, was a smiling professional and informative of the menu. In her 6^th year as a waitress here I took her advice for my dish selections.

I started with their famous Turtle Soup au Sherry, a hearty but light Cajun broth, succulent and satisfying with tender bits of turtle and sausage with a handful of dirty rice, perhaps a bit too salty for my palette but satisfying none the less. 

For my entrée I had the Chicken Oscar, boneless skinless chicken breast served atop mashed red potatoes and topped with crabmeat and a tasso hollandaise sauce. Juicy tender chicken and fresh crabmeat combine nicely in the mouth and the hollandaise compliments texture and taste. This was truly a meal that I have waited for. 4 star food with 5 star atmosphere.

Next, a local favorite, Kingfish, also in the French Quarter at 337 Charters, where Chef Greg Sonnier now cooks after having apprenticed under K-Paul himself. 

It is an elegant establishment for the French Quarter with a casual atmosphere. The décor highlighted with Huey Long images and a touch of modernism creates a very nice atmosphere. I stared here with the highly praised Smoked Rabbit Gumbo. You can now count me among those praising this tasty treat. With chunks of delicious smoked rabbit and Sorrel sausage, topped with dirty brown basmati rice in a hearty broth highlighted with green scallion, I would eat this every day. 

For an entrée I went with the Pescado Borracho Tacos, three street corn tortilla tacos with blackened catfish topped with a Napa cabbage slaw with quartered lime slices on the side and a sour cream with jalapenos condiment. In one word, delightful. This was tasty without being over bearing, light, healthy, somewhat festive and easily digested. 4 star food with 4 star atmosphere. 

Finally I ventured outside the French Quarter to a local favorite. Ancora Pizzeria and Salumeria at 4508 Freret Street. 

Ancora shows as a more modern and clean looking place then what is typical of most NOLA establishments. It is owned and operated by an Italian family who use only local high quality ingredients in their dishes and acknowledge and praise these local farms and dairies on their menu. For starters I chose a grilled zucchini and squash in olive oil and garlic, topped with a shredded aged cheese. This dish was as delightful as they come. This dish was healthy, fresh and tasty. 

Next up I had the halved cherry tomatoes in an herbed light oil topped with a flash fried flowered squash and a sharp white cheese. The flavors in this dish complimented one another in texture and taste, perhaps my favorite dish of the trip.

Finally I had to try the brick oven Margherita pizza, Fior di Latte, basil, olives, garlic and a fine light and slightly sweet tomato sauce on a thin crust flavored from the burnt smoke of the brick ovens. Pizza does not get any better than this. 5 star food with 4 star atmosphere. 

A few tips. Pace yourself. This is New Orleans were over indulgence reins. Bring your appetite and order foods liberally. Inside the French Quarter you will walk miles without even realizing it and if you get tired feet and legs as most visiting tourists will, you may consider this advice. Wear your most comfortable shoes/sneakers. No flip flops as there may be remnants of undesirable elements still on Bourbon Street from the night before. I suggest purchasing graduated compression socks. The science has been proven and personally, I know they work miracles for your feet after those long days. Do not become a tourist who has to massage his/her own feet on a public bench. I also use custom insoles in my shoes, not the over the counter, made in China flimsies. I recommend a custom insole that was designed from impressions of your very own feet. Keep your feet happy and your entire body will be happy.

Happy Eating!

By John R Allison

Adventurer/Blogger

Manager at FootMindBody.com

Top 10 Hikes in America

Upper Antelope Canyon, AZ

This hike will take your breath away and your memories of it will linger in your dreams for a very long time. This hike is on Navajos lands in Northern Arizona just a short drive from the town of Page. Generations of Navajos have been enchanted by this cathedral of canyons.

First, hikers must obtain a Navajo Nation Backcountry Permit. The price is $12 per person and is good for a 24 hour period. Permits are available at:

Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park Office in Page, AZ 
(928) 698-2808 voice  (928) 698-2820 fax
email : ac@navajonationparks.org

The office is located next to the LeChee Chapter House, which is three miles south of Page, Arizona on Coppermine Rd. (Navajo Route 20). Canyon GPS coordinates: 36°53'17" N, 111°22'4" W.

 

Guided tours are also available from a variety of tour operators in and around Page, AZ.

Get there early in the day. As the sun beams into the canyon you will want to have your camera with you. These canyons will give even the most novice of photographers the opportunity to take some very spectacular photographs. 

Pause a few moments before going into the canyon to get into the right frame of mind. Prepare yourself for walking into a true wonder of mother earth. This hike is enchanting and will leave you in awe.

Just within a few feet of your entry point into the canyon the ground is sandy and the path is narrow, no more than 3-12 feet wide and up to 60 feet tall. The canyon walls tower above you and in some spots the sunlight finds its way to the canyon floor appearing as a beam from heaven. They call this a “slot” canyon. Over millions of years rainwater has carved its way through the rocks creating these types of deep canyons.

Caution, do not enter the canyon if rain is expected as the canyon will be flushed out during a good rain and you will NOT want to be caught in that type of situation.

To prepare for this hike get necessary permits ahead of time. Inside the canyon it will remain mostly cool in Spring, Summer and Fall. Wear comfortable clothing and bring a sweatshirt. I recommend hauling in water, at least 44oz, a simple first-aide kit, a few power bars, a camera. Be sure your camera battery is charged and that you have adequate space on your memory card. I would also recommend carrying in a lightweight tripod for the experienced photographer. There is no cellular service available in the canyons. Never hike alone and make others aware of where you are and when you expect to be out of the canyon.

You will want to pay special attention to your footwear on this hike as much of it will be in the sand. Do not wear flip flops or open toed footwear. I recommend using a hiking boot with good ankle support. I also use custom insoles for added stability,support and comfort. I recommend the custom orthotics that are made from impressions of your feet and not the over the counter insoles. You also must be aware of the wildlife as you are funneled into the canyon together with other living creatures. Beware of snakes that might strike defensively if they feel trapped by your approach. Finally, remember the motto, pack it in, pack it out. Now you are ready.

You will depart these canyons with an uplifted feeling of what Mother Nature has to offer, and to be in harmony with something greater than ourselves. It was, and is, a spiritual experience.

Happy trails!