Finding Great Restaurants in New Orleans

I grew up in New York where aromas of worldly foods waft through the air drawing attention and curiosity to your hunger. I moved from New York City, away from the over 16,000 Full-service restaurants. Now, I am living in a vibrant but small community in the Mississippi Delta which is home to not a single traffic light and a total of five restaurants. That said, every now and then I drive great distances to satisfy my palette and fill my belly. This time, destination New Orleans! NOLA is one of my favorite cities in America, where the language, architecture, food and music are all their own.

So, where to eat in New Orleans? First I enquired among friends and family. Then I talked to the local folks of New Orleans. NOLA has its share of trendy eateries that cater mostly to tourists. I have indulged in these places many times. This time however, let me discover where the locals love to eat. 

The Court of Two Sisters is in the French Quarter at 613 Royal Street. It boasts the largest courtyard in the French Quarter. The original resident at this address was Sieur Etienne de Perier, the royal governor of colonial Louisiana between 1726 and 1733.  Later, two Creole sisters acquired the property and hence the name, The Court of Two Sisters. The restaurant caters to both the local crowds and the tourists. I was greeted and seated in the fabulous courtyard under the shade of large Wisteria vines and adjacent to the trickling of a marvelous flowing fountain. Aleshia, my waitress, was a smiling professional and informative of the menu. In her 6^th year as a waitress here I took her advice for my dish selections.

I started with their famous Turtle Soup au Sherry, a hearty but light Cajun broth, succulent and satisfying with tender bits of turtle and sausage with a handful of dirty rice, perhaps a bit too salty for my palette but satisfying none the less. 

For my entrée I had the Chicken Oscar, boneless skinless chicken breast served atop mashed red potatoes and topped with crabmeat and a tasso hollandaise sauce. Juicy tender chicken and fresh crabmeat combine nicely in the mouth and the hollandaise compliments texture and taste. This was truly a meal that I have waited for. 4 star food with 5 star atmosphere.

Next, a local favorite, Kingfish, also in the French Quarter at 337 Charters, where Chef Greg Sonnier now cooks after having apprenticed under K-Paul himself. 

It is an elegant establishment for the French Quarter with a casual atmosphere. The décor highlighted with Huey Long images and a touch of modernism creates a very nice atmosphere. I stared here with the highly praised Smoked Rabbit Gumbo. You can now count me among those praising this tasty treat. With chunks of delicious smoked rabbit and Sorrel sausage, topped with dirty brown basmati rice in a hearty broth highlighted with green scallion, I would eat this every day. 

For an entrée I went with the Pescado Borracho Tacos, three street corn tortilla tacos with blackened catfish topped with a Napa cabbage slaw with quartered lime slices on the side and a sour cream with jalapenos condiment. In one word, delightful. This was tasty without being over bearing, light, healthy, somewhat festive and easily digested. 4 star food with 4 star atmosphere. 

Finally I ventured outside the French Quarter to a local favorite. Ancora Pizzeria and Salumeria at 4508 Freret Street. 

Ancora shows as a more modern and clean looking place then what is typical of most NOLA establishments. It is owned and operated by an Italian family who use only local high quality ingredients in their dishes and acknowledge and praise these local farms and dairies on their menu. For starters I chose a grilled zucchini and squash in olive oil and garlic, topped with a shredded aged cheese. This dish was as delightful as they come. This dish was healthy, fresh and tasty. 

Next up I had the halved cherry tomatoes in an herbed light oil topped with a flash fried flowered squash and a sharp white cheese. The flavors in this dish complimented one another in texture and taste, perhaps my favorite dish of the trip.

Finally I had to try the brick oven Margherita pizza, Fior di Latte, basil, olives, garlic and a fine light and slightly sweet tomato sauce on a thin crust flavored from the burnt smoke of the brick ovens. Pizza does not get any better than this. 5 star food with 4 star atmosphere. 

A few tips. Pace yourself. This is New Orleans were over indulgence reins. Bring your appetite and order foods liberally. Inside the French Quarter you will walk miles without even realizing it and if you get tired feet and legs as most visiting tourists will, you may consider this advice. Wear your most comfortable shoes/sneakers. No flip flops as there may be remnants of undesirable elements still on Bourbon Street from the night before. I suggest purchasing graduated compression socks. The science has been proven and personally, I know they work miracles for your feet after those long days. Do not become a tourist who has to massage his/her own feet on a public bench. I also use custom insoles in my shoes, not the over the counter, made in China flimsies. I recommend a custom insole that was designed from impressions of your very own feet. Keep your feet happy and your entire body will be happy.

Happy Eating!

By John R Allison

Adventurer/Blogger

Manager at FootMindBody.com

Top 10 Hikes in America

Upper Antelope Canyon, AZ

This hike will take your breath away and your memories of it will linger in your dreams for a very long time. This hike is on Navajos lands in Northern Arizona just a short drive from the town of Page. Generations of Navajos have been enchanted by this cathedral of canyons.

First, hikers must obtain a Navajo Nation Backcountry Permit. The price is $12 per person and is good for a 24 hour period. Permits are available at:

Lake Powell Navajo Tribal Park Office in Page, AZ 
(928) 698-2808 voice  (928) 698-2820 fax
email : ac@navajonationparks.org

The office is located next to the LeChee Chapter House, which is three miles south of Page, Arizona on Coppermine Rd. (Navajo Route 20). Canyon GPS coordinates: 36°53'17" N, 111°22'4" W.

 

Guided tours are also available from a variety of tour operators in and around Page, AZ.

Get there early in the day. As the sun beams into the canyon you will want to have your camera with you. These canyons will give even the most novice of photographers the opportunity to take some very spectacular photographs. 

Pause a few moments before going into the canyon to get into the right frame of mind. Prepare yourself for walking into a true wonder of mother earth. This hike is enchanting and will leave you in awe.

Just within a few feet of your entry point into the canyon the ground is sandy and the path is narrow, no more than 3-12 feet wide and up to 60 feet tall. The canyon walls tower above you and in some spots the sunlight finds its way to the canyon floor appearing as a beam from heaven. They call this a “slot” canyon. Over millions of years rainwater has carved its way through the rocks creating these types of deep canyons.

Caution, do not enter the canyon if rain is expected as the canyon will be flushed out during a good rain and you will NOT want to be caught in that type of situation.

To prepare for this hike get necessary permits ahead of time. Inside the canyon it will remain mostly cool in Spring, Summer and Fall. Wear comfortable clothing and bring a sweatshirt. I recommend hauling in water, at least 44oz, a simple first-aide kit, a few power bars, a camera. Be sure your camera battery is charged and that you have adequate space on your memory card. I would also recommend carrying in a lightweight tripod for the experienced photographer. There is no cellular service available in the canyons. Never hike alone and make others aware of where you are and when you expect to be out of the canyon.

You will want to pay special attention to your footwear on this hike as much of it will be in the sand. Do not wear flip flops or open toed footwear. I recommend using a hiking boot with good ankle support. I also use custom insoles for added stability,support and comfort. I recommend the custom orthotics that are made from impressions of your feet and not the over the counter insoles. You also must be aware of the wildlife as you are funneled into the canyon together with other living creatures. Beware of snakes that might strike defensively if they feel trapped by your approach. Finally, remember the motto, pack it in, pack it out. Now you are ready.

You will depart these canyons with an uplifted feeling of what Mother Nature has to offer, and to be in harmony with something greater than ourselves. It was, and is, a spiritual experience.

Happy trails!

One of the Top 10 Hikes in America

Aravaipa Canyon Wilderness

Just 60 miles north of Tucson, AZ there is one hike I do every year. This breathtakingly scenic hike ventures into Aravaipa Canyon. I love this hike and the reasons are simple, you can never get enough! This hike is workable for the whole family. These nearly 20,000 acres of canyon wilderness was once part of a large area ruled by Apache Chief Ezkiminzin. 

Today Aravaipa Canyon is cared for by the Bureau of Land Management. You must log into their website to arrange for permits to camp or hike into the canyon. There is a limit of 15 permits issued per day at each end of the 15 mile canyon. I prefer entering the canyon from the West entrance. The best times of year to enter the canyon are in the Spring, Summer or Fall. I prefer the month of May or early June. Mind the monsoons in August to avoid a 20 foot wall of water chasing you out of the canyon.

From Tucson (70 miles, 1.5 to 2 hours): Take US Highway 77 through Oracle Junction to the Aravaipa Road (8 miles north of Mammoth). Turn right on Aravaipa Road and go 12 miles to the trailhead along a paved and graded dirt road. From the trailhead, it is a 1.5-mile hike through Nature Conservancy land to the west wilderness boundary. It will be hot at the trail head however, once you make it down into the canyon there is a natural air conditioned effect from the breezes gently blowing off the stream, it feels amazingly refreshing. Your nose will be pleased from the scents coming off of the varied array of riparian vegetation as well.

You will want to pay special attention to your footwear on this hike as much of it will be in a stream and that means wet feet. Do not wear swim or water slippers as they will fill with sand and become very uncomfortable fast. I recommend using a hiking boot with good ankle support. I also use custom insoles for added stability,support and comfort. I recommend the custom orthotics that are made from impressions of your feet and not the over the counter insoles. You will need sunscreen, a few first aide items, a wide brim hat, a towel, something to swim in and of course lots of water and snacks. A camera and binoculars are also recommended. You will want to find a nice walking cane along the hike to help you balance while traversing the stream. Since you will be hiking in water a good bit of the time, try a DryMax sock. These socks are designed to keep your feet dry and will help prevent soggy feet syndrome. You also must be aware of the wildlife as you are funneled into the canyon together with other living creatures. I have seen many Javalina. Pay no mind and you should be fine. Finally, remember the motto, pack it in, pack it out. Now you are ready.

You can take your time and hike as far in as you wish. There are several beautiful resting/swimming spots along the first 3 mile stretch, pick one and settle in for a snack, a rest and a well deserved cooling down swim. The water is refreshing and feels great on a hot day and there is no better way to cool down. The further you hike in the higher the surrounding canyon walls become. At mile 6, about half way through the canyon you will be confined by canyon walls on each side of you reaching as high as 300 feet. F-16 fighter jets out of Tucson have been known to make the dive into the canyon.

Aravaipa creek flows all year long through the canyon. There are as many as 9 side canyons worth exploring as well. Remember, there are no designated trails, signs or facilities of any kind. You will be in the Wilderness, expect the wild! If you love nature, the outdoors and love the water this hike is worth doing every year no matter how far you must travel to get here.

Happy trails!

One of the Top 10 Hikes in America

Chiricahua National Monument

By John R Allison

This 12 mile round trip hike into the Heart of Rocks in the Chiricahua mountain range is simply put, one heck of a spectacular trek that needs to be on every avid hiker’s buck list.

The National monument is located 120 miles Southeast of Tucson Arizona. The rock formations in these canyons were carved by ice and water from layers of rhyolite, which was originally ash blown out during the Turkey Creek Volcano eruption 27 million years ago. Stop at the Ranger's Station for a map.

This mountain range was also home to the last bands of Native Americans to surrender; the Chiricahua Apache, Geronimo and Cochise among them. In 1886, after their final surrender, all remaining Apaches were sent off to Florida, then to Oklahoma to live on reservations.

 

I parked my vehicle at Massai Point and began my hike at 9:00am.  Not even to the trail head yet and I see what I learn are a family of coatimundi, mammals of the raccoon family with long tails. 

After the first mile you begin to realize how easy it would be, if you were an Apache and lived in these mountains, to elude an army of 5,000 US soldiers searching for you. You begin to see some truly amazing rock formations towering all around you.

The Heart of Rocks Loop was my goal. I took the Ed Riggs Trail to the Hailstone Trail and followed it to the Sarah Deming Trail 6.0 miles in and you reach the Heart of Rocks. The air couldn’t be fresher, the breathtaking views and the moderate temperature made me think that it just doesn’t get any better than this.  During my 12 miles both in and out I ran into 3 parties of 2 or more, friendly, happy hikers….like meeting in heaven.

Below is the rock formation known as Punch and Judy, husband and wife arguing.

The Heart of Rocks is about a 1/3 mile loop with some really amazing rock formations and a fine place to rest, call it halftime and fuel up with food and water. Bring a recorder or a flute and commune with the Apache spirits. Whatever you do, just go. The memories will last a lifetime.

In the foreground above you can see a formation that resembles the resting head of Apache Chief Cochise, as he is buried in an unknown location in the Chiricahuas.

My survival gear consisted of a 72oz camel pack of water, 4 energy bars, one banana, one orange, sunscreen, a hat, hiking boots, a simple first aide kit, a flashlight, a lighter, compression socks and custom insoles. Now most of this is simple common sense for an experienced hiker. I discovered compression socks through a Tucson based hiking club and I gave them a try. After hiking12 miles you will know that they make a big difference at the end of the day. I also discovered that custom insoles, made from impressions of each of your feet, have great benefits both for stability and comfort during a good hike. There you have it.

Happy hiking!

p.s. There are abundant camping grounds for an overnight stay in the canyon if you desire.

Tips to surviving your trip to New York City

Big Apple Hiking

I was born in Manhattan and spent 35 years discovering its secrets. So, if you are planning a trip to NYC I have a few travel tips that may make your trip more comfortable and enjoyable. 

You can research what to do all you want on-line. The best information will come from New Yorkers themselves. So, if you have any friends or relatives living in NY, contacting them for general advice will be helpful.

First, New York City is not the New York City it was 25 years ago. No more “scary” neighborhoods. Gentrification and economics have changed that, along with Rudy Guiliani who received most credit for turning 42^nd street from a hellish environment to a Family friendly place to be. 

Tourism is NYC’s #1 industry. You will not be alone as an outsider. You will hear 15 different languages spoken on a 30 minute stroll down Madison Avenue if you keep your ears attentive.

So lucky you, you are on your way to NYC, a safe place, a wild place, a tourist destination for the entire world. Your first stop, either Kenndy or LaGuardia Airport will be bustling with movement and activity. Don’t let it change your style, take it all in, take time to smell the roses.

I recommend that first time visitors stay in the Times Square vicinity. This way you will feel like you are in the center of the universe and you will only be a short walk to Theaters, Lincoln Center, Carnegie Hall, Radio City, Rockefeller Center, shopping and restaurants galore!

Once situated at your hotel, take a walk to the nearest Deli and get a coffee and the Village Voice, a free newspaper with pages and pages of local stories and events about town.

If you do not already have one, obtain a subway map of the city. Manhattan is one of the easiest places to figure out. Streets are numbered and run East and West. Avenues are numbered (and named) and run North and South. All laid out, for the most part, in a perfect grid. 33^rd and 3^rd, means 33^rd Street and 3^rd Avenue.

Now that you are ready to take on Manhattan I have a few suggestions for things not to miss out on. Here are my favorites: The observation deck of the Empire State Building on 34^th street.

Don’t miss the 9/11 Memorial in lower Manhattan, you WILL be moved. After your visit there, walk East, past the Stock Exchange and to The South Street Seaport, a shopping dining and entertainment extravaganza on the pier over the East River.

Weather will not be a factor. If it is too hot or you are too cold, open any door, just a few feet away at any given time there is bound to be an indoor shopping opportunity that will be the perfect temperature.

I would not worry too much about food and places to eat. There are way too many terrific choices; however, I would recommend getting breakfast at a Deli. You will pay about $6 for eggs and bacon on a kaiser roll, orange juice and coffee. If you prefer a $20 breakfast, well, they are abundant. 

For all pizza aficionados, try one of John’s BrickOven Pizza locations, simply the best! 

Known to be the best bakery in Manhattan, Veniero’s Italian Bakery on 11^th Street will have you drooling upon entry. There you can get pastry, cakes, pie, cookies and all sorts of delectable items to choose from.

When it comes to eating in NY, I might only suggest, try something new, there are boundless opportunities to excite your palate.

My final point, and perhaps the most important, is the fact that you will be walking great distances. No doubt your hiking around Manhattan will be eventful as eye candy is bountiful. You may not even realize it but at the end of the day you may have clocked 4 to 6 miles strolling the sidewalks of the big apple. Select your footwear accordingly. I would suggest your most comfortable walking shoe or sneaker. Remember, when you awake on your 2^nd day, you will be hiking all over again. To help avoid tired legs I recommend the following two items that will ensure happier feet and legs throughout your time in the city, compression socks and a custom fit insole made from an impression of each of your feet. Compression socks help by increasing blood and oxygen flow to your muscles and you will appreciate the difference they will make.

Custom fabricated insoles will assist in stabilizing your foot and will give you the highest level of comfort for your feet.

I mention these two items because after countless times hosting friends and relatives, touring the Big Apple, I know the value of being comfortable on your feet. Do not let your biggest memory of your time in NYC be tired legs and feet. New York is a get up and go town. New York City is a Walkers town.

There you have it. Now go venture forth and have a great and memorable time in Manhattan!